Accord
A perfume accord is formed by combining three or four carefully chosen notes that harmonize into a singular, distinctive impression. It’s neither purely floral, fruity, nor woody, but rather a unique entity that captures elements of each contributing note. Master perfumers craft accords to evoke specific moods or atmospheres, making them the foundation for more complex fragrances.
Aldehydes
These are organic compounds that give an unmistakable sharp, bright quality to perfumes. They can lend a sense of airy sparkle or a “lift” to floral notes, creating an almost effervescent effect. Their use in classic fragrances, such as Chanel No. 5, revolutionized modern perfumery by adding a crisp, futuristic edge to compositions.
Absolutes
Highly concentrated aromatic extracts obtained through solvent extraction of delicate plant materials. Absolutes, such as jasmine or tuberose, deliver intensely true-to-nature scents often used at low concentrations. Their potency brings richness and complexity, shaping a fragrance’s depth and authenticity.
Amber
Contrary to the gemstone, “amber” in perfumery refers to sweet, resinous accords often built with labdanum, benzoin, and vanillin. This note exudes a warm, cozy, and slightly powdery aroma that envelops a composition in softness. Amber’s comforting quality forms the heart of many oriental and gourmand fragrances.
Aquatic
Aquatic fragrances are reminiscent of ocean breezes and cool, watery freshness. They commonly feature marine notes, calone (a synthetic marine molecule), and sometimes hints of citrus. These scents evoke a sense of cleanliness and freedom, ideal for those seeking a light, breezy perfume experience.
Aromatic
Aromatic perfumes emphasize herbal, green, or spicy notes derived from plants like sage, rosemary, or lavender. They often have a crisp, invigorating profile layered atop subtle woody or citrus nuances. This category is versatile, blending well with floral or woody elements to create balanced, uplifting compositions.
Aldehydic
Aldehydic notes provide a clean, soapy, and sometimes metallic sparkle, particularly enhancing floral compositions. They evoke a sense of modernity and can lend an airy brightness to heavier ingredients. Aldehydic fragrances rose to prominence in the early 20th century, showcasing new possibilities in synthetic perfumery.
Base Notes
The base notes of a fragrance emerge after the top and middle notes evaporate, providing depth and longevity. They’re often composed of heavier, more resilient materials like resins, woods, and musks that anchor the perfume to the skin. These rich, lingering elements ensure a fragrance leaves a lasting impression and acts as its structural backbone.
Chypre
Named after the French word for Cyprus, this is a family of perfumes known for its earthy, woody undertones. Characteristic notes often include bergamot, oakmoss, labdanum, and patchouli, striking a balance between fresh and deep. Chypre fragrances are elegant, timeless, and beloved for their sophisticated complexity.
Citrus
Citrus fragrances spotlight the zesty, uplifting scents of lemon, bergamot, grapefruit, and orange. They are typically bright, sparkling, and refreshing, making them perfect for daytime or warm weather. Citrus notes often open a perfume, providing an energizing burst before transitioning to deeper heart and base layers.
Compound
A fragrance compound is the blend of essential oils, absolutes, and aromachemicals that form the perfume’s unique identity. This concentrated mixture is then combined with a carrier like alcohol to create the final product. Skilled perfumers meticulously balance each component to craft a harmonious and memorable scent.
Distillation
One of the oldest methods of extracting essential oils, distillation uses steam or water to separate aromatic compounds from plant materials. The process preserves the purity of the oil, capturing the essence of flowers, roots, or woods. Distilled oils are fundamental to perfumery, forming the backbone of countless classic and modern fragrances.
Eau de Cologne (EDC)
A light and refreshing fragrance style, typically containing 2-4% essential oils blended with alcohol and water. EDCs are perfect for a quick burst of scent and often highlight citrus or herbal notes. They are historically rooted in 18th-century Germany but remain popular worldwide for their crisp, invigorating quality.
Eau de Parfum (EDP)
A more concentrated form of perfume with around 15-20% fragrance oils, offering longer-lasting scent. It strikes a balance between intensity and wearability, making it a favored choice for both daytime and evening use. Because of its higher oil content, EDP projects well, retains complexity, and evolves beautifully on the skin.
Eau de Toilette (EDT)
Containing roughly 5-15% fragrance oils, Eau de Toilette is one of the most commonly available perfume types. Often lighter and more affordable than Eau de Parfum, it’s ideal for daily wear or warmer climates. While it may not last as long as EDP, it remains a popular option due to its versatile and refreshing nature.
Essential Oils
These aromatic oils are extracted from flowers, herbs, and other plant materials through methods like distillation or cold pressing. They serve as the perfume’s core, capturing the natural essence of the source material with precision. Rich in complexity, essential oils can provide both the subtle and dominant notes that define a fragrance’s character.
Enfleurage
An age-old technique that uses odorless fats to absorb the fragrance of delicate flowers, such as jasmine or tuberose. The fat is then washed with alcohol to separate the aromatic oils, resulting in an absolute. Though labor-intensive and less common today, enfleurage produces exquisitely pure and nuanced floral extractions.
Extrait
Also called perfume extract, this is the most potent form of fragrance with a concentration ranging from 20-40% perfume oils. Due to its intensity, only a small amount is needed, and it often has exceptional longevity. Extraits offer a richer, more luxurious experience, unveiling facets that may not be as prominent in lighter concentrations.
Fougère
A classic fragrance family built around notes of lavender, coumarin, and oakmoss, evoking a “fern-like” freshness. The term comes from the French word for “fern,” although ferns have no direct scent. Fougères often strike a refined balance between crisp herbal top notes and warm, mossy undertones.
Fixatives
Fixatives are materials that help stabilize a perfume’s composition, slowing the evaporation of volatile notes. They ensure the fragrance unfolds gracefully, maintaining its intended balance and structure over time. Common fixatives include resins, balsams, and synthetic molecules that seamlessly blend with other ingredients.
Floral
This broad category focuses on scents derived from flowers such as rose, jasmine, lily, and tuberose. Florals can range from delicate and airy to lush and heady, offering a wide palette of expressions. They often serve as the heart of a perfume, embodying romance, femininity, and natural beauty.
Fragrance Pyramid
A conceptual model illustrating how a fragrance develops in stages: top, middle (heart), and base notes. It helps explain why a perfume smells fresh at first and then becomes richer and deeper over time. Understanding this pyramid allows enthusiasts to appreciate each layer as it reveals itself on the skin.
Green
Green notes conjure the scent of freshly cut leaves, grass, or stems, imparting a lively, invigorating quality. They can be slightly sharp or crisp, serving as a breath of fresh air in a composition. Perfumers use green facets to add brightness, vitality, or a modern edge to floral and woody blends.
Heart/Middle Notes
Emerging after the top notes fade, these form the core identity of the perfume. They typically include floral, fruity, or spice accords that define the fragrance’s main character. As the bridge between top and base, heart notes ensure a smooth, harmonious transition in the perfume’s evolution.
Incense
A note derived from the aromatic resins of plants like frankincense and myrrh, giving fragrances a mystical, smoky aura. It’s often associated with spiritual or ceremonial settings, bringing depth and serenity to a blend. Incense can be warm, balsamic, or slightly spicy, anchoring a perfume with its meditative complexity.
Leather
Leather fragrances evoke the distinctive scent of tanned hides, blending smoky, animalic, and sometimes slightly sweet undertones. Notes like birch tar, styrax, or labdanum help mimic this luxurious aroma. Leather scents are bold and sophisticated, often associated with a sense of classic elegance and refinement.
Musk
Originally sourced from the musk gland of certain animals, today’s musks are mostly synthesized to ensure ethical and sustainable production. Known for its deep, sensual, and slightly animalic aroma, musk underpins a perfume’s structure. It also functions as a fixative, giving longevity and warmth to fragrances.
Maceration
Maceration is the process of steeping raw aromatic materials in a solvent (often alcohol) to extract fragrant compounds. Over time, the solvent draws out the oils and essence from the materials, which are then filtered. This traditional method ensures deep, full-bodied extracts that contribute to richer, more authentic scents.
Notes
In perfumery, “notes” refer to individual scent components that one can detect at various stages of wear. They can be natural (from essential oils) or synthetic, each providing unique characteristics. When combined artfully, these notes form the layered stories that perfumes convey.
Neroli
Derived from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree, neroli oil has a sweet, citrusy-floral scent with a hint of green freshness. It’s prized in perfumery for its uplifting, soothing qualities and blends exceptionally well with other citrus and floral notes. Neroli can add a touch of brightness and effervescence to compositions, reminiscent of springtime blooms.
Oriental (first definition)
A fragrance family noted for its warm, opulent, and often spicy character, featuring ingredients like resins, vanilla, and musk. This style is synonymous with an exotic, enveloping quality that leaves a memorable, lingering presence. Oriental scents typically evoke sensuality, mystery, and a touch of the exotic.
Olfactory Fatigue
This phenomenon occurs when the nose becomes desensitized to a scent after prolonged or repeated exposure. As a result, you may fail to detect a fragrance that’s still perceptible to others. Perfume testers often use techniques like smelling coffee beans or taking short breaks to reset the senses and regain objectivity.
Oriental (second definition)
Encompassing rich ingredients like vanilla, amber, musk, and spices, this fragrance family exudes warmth and mystery. Many oriental perfumes feature exotic floral aspects, creating a luxurious, enveloping aura. Their longevity and sweetness make them popular for evening wear or cooler seasons, adding a sense of depth and sensuality.
Powdery
“Powdery” notes impart a soft, clean, and slightly sweet impression reminiscent of talcum or facial powder. This effect often comes from materials like iris, violet, or musks. Powdery fragrances convey comfort and nostalgia, adding a gentle elegance to a composition’s final dry-down.
Reconstitution
This is the technique of recreating a natural scent by blending synthetic and/or natural components that mimic its molecular profile. It allows perfumers to capture the fragrance of rare or protected materials without overharvesting. Reconstitutions can also highlight specific facets of an aroma, offering a more controlled and consistent outcome.
Resin
Resins are sticky substances secreted by certain trees or plants (like benzoin, myrrh, or frankincense) prized for their rich, balsamic scents. They are used as base notes, lending warmth, depth, and an almost sacred feel to perfumes. Resins also act as natural fixatives, helping a scent linger on the skin.
Sillage
Sillage describes the scented trail a perfume leaves behind when the wearer moves through a space. High-sillage fragrances can fill a room, while lower-sillage scents remain closer to the skin. It’s influenced by factors like the perfume’s composition, application method, and the wearer’s unique skin chemistry.
Synthetic Ingredients
These are man-made aromatic compounds crafted to replicate or enhance natural scents in perfumes. They can provide cleaner, more consistent profiles than some natural materials while offering environmental and ethical benefits. Their use also expands a perfumer’s palette, making possible modern and abstract fragrance creations.
Solvent Extraction
A gentle method of obtaining aromatic compounds, especially from delicate flowers that might be damaged by high heat. A non-polar solvent dissolves the fragrance materials, which are later separated and purified into concretes or absolutes. This approach preserves the most subtle nuances of the source, offering true-to-nature aromas.
Spicy
Spicy fragrances feature notes like clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, and cardamom to deliver warmth and piquancy. These aromas can enhance both fresh and sweet compositions, weaving in complexity. Spicy elements often lend an exotic, stimulating quality, making perfumes more vibrant and memorable.
Top/Head Notes
The top or head notes are the initial impression of a perfume, which you detect immediately upon application. They are typically fresh, zesty, or bright scents that evaporate quickly, lasting only a few minutes to half an hour. These fleeting notes set the stage for the deeper heart and base to follow.
Tincture
In perfumery, a tincture is created by soaking raw materials—like vanilla beans or ambergris—in alcohol for extended periods. The alcohol absorbs the aromatic essence, resulting in a subtly fragrant solution. Tinctures capture the soul of rare or delicate ingredients, ready for blending into finished perfumes.
Vetiver
An essential oil distilled from the roots of the vetiver plant, prized for its deep, earthy, and slightly smoky aroma. It anchors and “grounds” fragrances, acting as a fixative that prolongs other notes. Vetiver’s versatility allows it to harmonize with citrus, floral, or woody elements, making it a staple in both masculine and unisex perfumes.
Volatile
In perfumery, “volatile” describes ingredients that evaporate quickly at normal temperatures, such as citrus oils. High volatility means top notes disperse easily, delivering that immediate burst of scent. Perfume creation relies on balancing volatile components with more stable ones to ensure a layered and lasting fragrance journey.
Vanilla
Sourced from the pods of orchids in the genus Vanilla, this sweet note is beloved for its comforting, creamy warmth. Vanilla can round out sharp edges in a fragrance, offering a soft, indulgent finish. It’s a key component of many gourmands, orientals, and modern blends, lending a universal appeal.
Woody
Woody fragrances revolve around materials like cedarwood, sandalwood, and patchouli, offering a grounding, earthy core. They can be creamy, dry, smoky, or resinous, adding warmth and sophistication to a composition. Woody elements often serve as a foundation, harmonizing with floral, citrus, or spicy notes to create depth.
Zest
Refers to the outer rind of citrus fruits like lemon or orange, used for its bright, tangy aroma. In perfumes, zest brings a lively energy that uplifts the composition. It works particularly well in top notes, injecting an immediate burst of freshness.